Rich Tea And Sympathy

Rajah Banerjee’s autobiography chronicles how he made Makaibari world class, says SHANTANU GUHA RAY

FOR MORE than three decades, Rajah Banerjee battled bureacracy, inclement weather and the scepticism of fellow tea growers to transform Makaibari, his familyowned tea estate in Darjeeling. But by proving that sustainable agriculture can be commerially viable and benefit both the environment and local communities, he’s been able to cock a snook at other estate owners.

His estate produces the world’s most expensive tea — a champagne brew — and is not the typical regimented lines of bushes that dot Darjeeling’s dozens of gardens. Instead, Makaibari, with plenty of fruit and bamboo, herbs and clover surrounding the tea bushes, looks very different. And all these grow on dark, soft, soil fed with organic compost prepared on the estate.

Banerjee is a fourth generation planter who realised — after he was back from his studies in London and reacquainted with the area — that dense tea monoculture was neither environmentally nor economically sustainable. He moved into top gear and went organic even as production declined in other gardens.

The story of Banerjee’s pioneering efforts to convert his tea estate to permaculture has been chronicled in his autobiography. His successes can be seen in the bushes that have been integrated into six tiers of plants. This forms a biodynamic ecosystem that both enriches the health of the soil and checks its erosion. Banerjee personally supervises everything after he is done with his morning horse ride through the estate.

Although tea may be the prevailing flavour at Makaibari, Banerjee has tried to help workers as well. The seven villages around have electricity and piped water. He offers other tea garden owners courses on how to promote their brands. Read the book. You will also get a free CD: a fascinating documentary on Makaibari by a French filmmaker. •