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America in our lives

Hollywood flicks. MTV chicks. Mcburgers. Sandy Bergers. Cola wars. Cold wars. Consumer greed. Terminator seed. We may love it. We may hate it. We cannot escape America. It is willy-nilly moving into our living rooms and lives. Ain’t it, asks Shobhan Saxena

Even on wintry mornings, Anurag Tripathi cycles through the virtual decay of Varanasi. Slicing through the thick fog, he stops at a brand new hotel on the Ganges, one built around a temple and brightly lit with Christmas tree lights, and parks his rickety bicycle there. He looks at the tree and the ghats and the winding city. Then he goes down to Assi Ghat below, ignoring teeming hordes of beggars and sadhus. He makes a bundle of his white shawl and unwashed clothes, keeps it on his books and plunges into the filthy, toxic river. Shivering and humming Hanuman Chalisa, he emerges from the water, puts on his clothes and pedals down to the Benaras Hindu University campus. Tripathi spends the day on experiments in the physics laboratory, reading science journals, making notes, and dreaming of going to the mit one day.

When the evening mist begins to blanket the sprawling campus, he leaves the lab, cycles up to the Lanka Gate and orders a burger at a small, squalid roadside hole. Hundreds of flies buzz around him as he eats his burger — a thick, greasy potato chop in a droughty bun with some rotten onion and a thin slice of stale tomato.

Finishing his grub, he picks a ‘Miss Lewinsky’ ice-cream from another vendor and moves into a narrow lane where they teach you to speak English the American way. As darkness thickens, Tripathi gets out of the institute and moves into a damp, cold cybercafe, assumes an oxymoronish identity — coolfire21 — and begins chatting with ‘serenesoul80’, a 24-year-old girl in Scottsdale, Arizona. She asks him about Varanasi widows and burning ghats, he talks about the erroneous western view of Indian philosophy. She asks him about poverty in India, he tells her why Bush is bad for America. He signs off with a cyber kiss and goes back to his 10x10 rooftop room in a small house in a slender gully.

America rules Tripathi’s life. He devours Resnick & Halliday’s Fundamentals of Physics and the Berkeley Journal of Science; he dreams of working on superconductivity in a Harvard lab; he saves money to eat burgers and ice-creams; he tries to speak English with a Yankee twang; he reads Dale Carnegie and Linda Goodman and old issues of Newsweek; he loves an Arizona girl; he writes anti-Bush slogans on the palm trees spread across the campus; and at night he takes out the five dollar bill sent to him by ‘serenesoul80’ from his rusty iron trunk and looks at George Washington’s portrait till his eyes begin to droop.

Tripathi is not some freak case. There are millions of young Indian men and women who are in love with America or the idea of it. With a sense of eager innocence, they want to know everything about America. They want to do everything the Americans do. In the so-called public schools tucked in the Himalayan foothills, young boys walk like Eminem. They scratch American profanities on their desks — ‘chemistry sucks, life f****’. They test each others’ sat knowledge. Their vocabulary is peppered with American slang. They know more about American politics than they do about Indian geography. They pool in money to rent a fake CD of Michael Moore’s Fahrenheit 9/11 and watch it on television. Life is good but it is not complete without a strong dash of America.
  
January 08, 2005
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